Alberta Crewed sits at a dock in the turquoise Caribbean waters in Trinidad after sailing nearly 5000 miles up the coast of South America. Craig, Laurie and guest (there is always a guest) have just come back from exploring the beaches, their biggest decision is should they open one of the many bottles of Malbec they picked up in Mendoza or should they fix up a caipirinha – a favourite Brazilian drink made with a distilled sugarcane alcohol called cachaça?

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Flash back five years and Craig and Laurie were looking out their frosty cabin window nestled in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains – not exactly the epicenter of sailing. The outside thermometer read -40 degrees (Fahrenheit or Celsius is inconsequential; it translates to the same – freezing). They are planning their retirement. Golf? A beach house in Mexico? An all-inclusive cruise on an all-you-can-eat ocean liner? None of these would do.

Instead, they spent the next five years reading, researching and learning everything they could about sailing, a mission that would lead them to purchasing their first boat – an Antares 44i, built and delivered in Argentina. Their story is not about how they got there, but about the journey itself.

“I am an eager and enthusiastic SSL (sailing as a second language) student.” Writes Laurie, who with no prior sailing experience, describes herself as a nautical neophyte. “I am astounded at how much our lives have changed. What we read, where we travel to, who we associate with, what we do in our free time, the media we watch, and the stores we browse in are completely different from those of three years ago.”
 
Their boat was launched in early November of last year, and Craig and Laurie made frequent visits to Argentina during the building process, familiarizing themselves with the cultural nuances of Buenos Aires.

“Over the past year and a half and in particular the last month, we have had the honour of witnessing the finest craftspeople at work. Not only have they taken great care with every detail, their day-to-day practices show high levels of attention to building the best boat possible.” Writes Laurie.

When you read Laurie’s blog entries at www.albertacrewed.com, you not only learn about the fabulous places and people they have encountered, but an underlying theme, a kind of side effect to sailing, begins to take shape. Their anxiety level diminishes with each passing day as their confidence in their boat and skills gets greater.

The four-day passage from Paloma, Uruguay to Florianopolis, Brazil involved long night watches, sleeplessness and seasickness – but it gave them a sense of how Alberta Crewed will serve them as their vessel – sure it’s about the journey, but it’s also about how you get there.

“For the first two days, we tried different sails and sail trim positions combined with one or two motors as wind direction and speed changed. Then on day three the wind shifted, settled into a south eastern flow, and sat there for 24 hours. We turned off the motors and with full main and genoa cruised along at over 8 knots. Alberta Crewed moved along the water like a racehorse, dancing rhythmically with the light seas and we just laughed. It was exhilarating.”

They have tenaciously scaled their learning curve armed with wit, enthusiasm and perseverance to overcome obstacles without the slightest nick to their gelcoat. Take docking in 40 knot winds for example.

“We now know why some sailors embark on nonstop around-the-world voyages. It’s because they don’t have to dock. We’re tempted to head out to sea permanently for that very reason.  We’re getting better at it, but our first few docking experiences have been way too exciting.  Picture an out of control tank spinning around a sports car parking lot and that’s how it feels.” 

“Along with building skills at docking, we’re also continuing to experience South American hospitality,” Laurie explains. “There always seems to be someone around to help out and we’ve been humbled by the generosity. It is a privileged education where after only a few hours together, people can feel like family. The life lines are the steel cables that act as railings around our boat but the expression ‘throw out a lifeline’ is all about the metaphorical line toss to someone in need.  The lifelines of hospitality and generosity that have enveloped us along our journey are stronger than steel.” 

It is easy to write a list of places to see, how long it took to get there, the direction of the wind, how many miles on the engine…that’s what log books are for, and there are hundreds of excellent guide books for route planning out there, but every once in a while, there is a destination that comes close to Paradise. One such place is Ilha Grande off the coast of Brazil, just south of Rio de Janeiro – a destination that for obvious reasons is off the beaten path for many North American sailors and is a treasure of wild life and secluded coves.

“We arrived last evening just in time for the concert.” Writes Laurie. “The opening movement came from the thousands of small fish in several distinct schools that wove and dove in synchronized waves under and around the hulls. A turtle provided a gentle rhythm in the background as he bobbed up and down for air. This was followed by a slight crescendo of several squid that darted at a piece of bread we had thrown into the water. They were about nine inches long and we wondered how long it would be before they landed up as lula dore on our dinner table.”

Sometimes it is not the long passages that test a sailor, but the challenges of navigating the bureaucracyof a foreign country. After months of cruising aboard Alberta Crewed and a short visit back to Canada, Craig returned to Brazil to complete the delivery to Trinidad with a hired delivery captain and crew. In spite of insuring he had the proper tourist visa, he was turned away by the Brazilian authorities.

“I had some anxious moments when Craig first called from Buenos Aires because of the guys waiting on the boat, the added expense, and the uncertainty of if and when he could get a new visa. Our original had taken 3 months. Our experience from the past five months quickly shook me out of my dread and turned me towards the positive aspects of the situation. First of all, everyone was safe.  We’ve learned to stop playing ‘what-if’ and work through situations as they come along.” Laurie explains.  

“While this detour could be viewed as a delay in the journey, I’ve learned that it is the journey. These kinds of experiences require creativity, flexibility, and patience and hold up mirrors of character for each of us to see ourselves in. One of my challenges has been to stay calm and think things through when it is difficult. I hope I can say that my moments of hysteria are diminishing as I get rattled out of my comfort spaces and can better respond with a clear head and heart.”

Back on Alberta Crewed they are in a very comfortable space. It also comes as no surprise that they have made friends with their neighbor Benito, a dive master who promises to take them out in Trinidad. There are plenty more stories to share, experiences to be had – after all – this is only the start of their journey.